The DO Empordà is one of the oldest designations of origin in Catalonia, with vineyards documented from Greco-Roman antiquity at Empúries. Today, more than 50 wineries produce character-driven wines on a terroir swept by the tramontane, between sea and Pyrenees. From Pals and Aparthotel Arenal, a half-hour drive gives access to several emblematic estates. Here are five wineries to discover in priority, with practical tips, visiting hours and food pairings.
The DO Empordà in numbers
The Denominació d'Origen Empordà covers around 2000 hectares of vineyards, spread across 35 municipalities of the northern Costa Brava. Vineyards stretch between the Albères massif (French border) and the Gulf of Roses, with a marked maritime influence.
The main grape varieties are native: garnatxa (grenache noir), carinyena (carignan), macabeu and xarel·lo for whites. Grey grenache, rare elsewhere, gives a distinctive mark to certain estates. The region also produces natural sweet wines (garnatxa de l'Empordà), fresh rosés and structured reds for ageing.
The Mediterranean climate, the tramontane and the granite or schist soils give wines with strong personality, often described as mineral and saline. The artisan dimension dominates: many wineries remain family-run, with production below 100,000 bottles per year.
1. Castell Peralada, history and prestige
Located 35 minutes from Pals, the Castell Peralada estate is the oldest producer in the Empordà. The winery belongs to Peralada castle, dating from the 14th century, and benefits from an exceptional setting between vines and medieval heritage.
Visits combine the castle, cloister and underground cellar. Tastings include Finca Garbet cuvées (grenache planted facing the sea), Ex Ex (experimental cuvée) and Gran Claustro sparkling wines. Count 28 to 45 euros per person depending on the format, for a two-hour visit.
Strong point: the Michelin-starred restaurant at the castle offers a full food and wine pairing menu to book alongside. The Peralada casino and the summer opera festival add a unique cultural dimension. Mandatory booking several weeks in advance in high season.
2. Perelada Espelt, the committed family estate
Espelt Viticultors farms 200 hectares in Vilajuïga, on the southern slope of Cap de Creus. The family estate, founded in 2000, quickly became a reference of the modern Empordà with an organic approach and precise winemaking.
Visits (18 to 25 euros) include the semi-buried cellar, designed by a local architecture firm, and a tasting of 4 to 6 wines. The estate's red and white grenaches particularly express the schist terroir. The sweet wine Old Vines Garnatxa, from 80-year-old vines, is worth the trip on its own.
The estate also offers vineyard visits, by 4x4 or on foot depending on the season. Panoramas over Cap de Creus and the Gulf of Roses are spectacular at sunset. Online booking recommended 48 hours in advance.
3. Martín Faixó, the vineyard facing the sea
In Cadaqués, Martín Faixó works vines among the closest to the Mediterranean in the region. The terraced vines, cultivated by hand on schist, produce very saline and mineral wines. The setting, classified as Cap de Creus natural park, is one of the finest wine tourism experiences in Spain.
Visits (45 to 65 euros) start with a guided 4x4 tour in the vines, with photo stops and geological explanations. The tasting takes place at the village cellar, facing Port Lligat bay (where Salvador Dalí lived). Six wines are proposed, including the Perafita cuvée (white grenache) and Frontissa (red grenache).
Allow a full morning for this experience. The road from Pals to Cadaqués is winding (50 minutes). In summer, plan an early start to avoid heat in the vines. The Compartir restaurant in Cadaqués, run by El Bulli alumni, perfectly rounds off the day.
4. Vinyes dels Aspres, a return to old vines
In Cantallops, at the foot of the Albères, Vinyes dels Aspres mainly cultivates old grenache vines (60 to 90 years). The winery, more confidential, offers an intimate and high-quality experience. The wines are in high demand and stocks are limited.
Visits (30 to 40 euros) are personal, often with the winemaker or oenologist. Four to five wines are tasted, including Negre Senior (red grenache old vines) and Ona rosés (grey grenache, very rare). Average duration: two hours.
The estate also offers an educational walk in the vines, explaining organic viticulture and native grape varieties. Enthusiasts of technical wine find their reward here. The village of Cantallops is a fine example of an Alt Empordà village, with direct views of the Albères.
5. Mas Llunes, the biodynamic adventure
Located in Garriguella, Mas Llunes farms 80 hectares in certified biodynamics since 2012. The estate embodies the new wave of the Empordà: radically natural viticulture, respect for lunar cycles, minimal intervention in the cellar.
Visits (22 to 32 euros) start with a presentation of the biodynamic calendar, followed by a walk in the vines and a tasting of 5 wines. The Nivaria cuvée (old-vine macabeu white) and Emporion (structured red) are the estate's signatures.
The team is young, passionate and pedagogical. Sessions last 1.5 to 2 hours, with groups limited to 8 people. Mas Llunes also works with several Michelin-starred restaurants in the region, which lets you identify the estate's wines on local menus.
Three-day wine tourism itinerary from Pals
For a structured wine tourism stay at Aparthotel Arenal, here is a recommended programme:
Day 1: Martín Faixó in Cadaqués in the morning, lunch at Compartir, free afternoon in Cadaqués and Port Lligat (Dalí house-museum). Return to Pals for dinner.
Day 2: Castell Peralada in the morning (castle tour and tasting), lunch at the estate restaurant, afternoon in Figueres (Dalí Theatre-Museum). Return to Pals.
Day 3: Perelada Espelt in the morning, lunch in Vilajuïga or Roses, afternoon at Mas Llunes in Garriguella. Dinner in Pals testing the trip's wines.
For a longer stay, add Vinyes dels Aspres and a visit to Caves Arché Pagès (Capmany) or Mas Estela (Selva de Mar). A week allows discovering 8 to 10 estates at a sustainable pace.
Practical wine tourism tips
A few important points for a successful wine stay:
- Booking: mandatory at all estates, without exception. Book 48 hours to 7 days in advance, more in high season
- Language: most visits are in Catalan, Spanish and English. French is available at some estates (Castell Peralada, Espelt). Specify the desired language when booking
- Designated driver: tastings are generous, plan a sober driver or private chauffeur (several providers on the Costa Brava offer wine tours)
- Purchases: most wineries deliver to France, Belgium or Spain. Check minimum orders and shipping costs before carrying boxes
- Hours: visits concentrate between 10 am and 6 pm, with a lunch break often from 1 to 3 pm. Estates usually close on Sunday afternoons
Typical Empordà food and wine pairings
Empordà wines pair naturally with local gastronomy:
- Young white grenache: fish suquet, L'Escala anchovies, red prawns
- Aged white grenache: starred fish cuisine, Pals rice risotto
- Rosé: paella, escalivada, grilled meats, calçotada
- Young red grenache: botifarra amb mongetes, pica-pica, Catalan charcuterie
- Aged red grenache: garrigue partridge, wild boar stew, matured cheeses
- Sweet garnatxa: crema catalana, pine-nut coca, blue cheeses
For deeper Empordà gastronomy, see our dedicated guide.
Purchases and personal cellar
Several options let you bring home the wines you discover:
- Direct at the winery: best prices, often with 10-15% discount on visit
- Vins i Licors Grau shop in La Bisbal d'Empordà: the best regional selection, prices close to the estates
- Palamós wine market (Saturday morning): good value for money and expert advice
- Specialist shops in Figueres and Girona: wider choice but slightly higher prices
To build a personal cellar representative of the Empordà, count 150 to 300 euros for 12 diversified bottles. Conservation is helped by the region's thermal stability (15-17 degrees in traditional cellars).
Frequent questions about Empordà wineries
Do I need to speak Catalan to visit a winery?
No. Spanish and English cover all visits. French is available at several prestigious estates. Catalan is appreciated but not necessary. Specify the language when booking.
How much do tastings cost on average?
From 18 to 45 euros for a standard visit (cellar + 4-6 wines tasted), with premium formats up to 65-85 euros (vineyard tour, meal included, rare cuvées). Value for money is clearly better than in Burgundy or Champagne.
Can we visit with children?
Most estates welcome children, with grape juice tasting for them. Castell Peralada and Espelt offer family-friendly activities. Closed shoes recommended for vineyard visits.
What is the best period to visit?
Harvests (late August to mid-October) offer a unique atmosphere but with less availability. Spring (April-June) is ideal: green vines, mild temperatures, maximum availability. Autumn after harvest (late October-November) is very peaceful and visually beautiful.
How to move around without a car?
Several agencies offer organised wine tours with driver from Pals, Begur, Palafrugell or Figueres. Count 120 to 180 euros per person for a day with 2-3 estates and lunch included. Taxis are expensive in Spain for long distances.
Do the estates offer catering?
Castell Peralada has a Michelin-starred restaurant. Espelt and Mas Llunes offer take-away picnics. Others point to partner restaurants in neighbouring villages. In all cases, order meals in advance.
Can we buy directly at the cellar?
Yes, always. Cellars offer their wines at producer prices, often with a visit discount. Rare older vintages are sometimes only available on-site. Direct purchases support local viticulture and give access to cuvées unavailable elsewhere.
Conclusion
The DO Empordà remains one of the most captivating appellations in Catalonia, with passionate winegrowers, strong terroirs and highly personal wines. From Aparthotel Arenal, all the major estates are accessible within an hour's drive, allowing you to build a 3 to 7-day wine tourism stay without changing base. The studio with kitchenette makes it easier to store purchases and extend tastings at home.
Book your studio at Aparthotel Arenal for your next wine immersion. To complete the experience, see our Empordà gastronomy guide, our complete Pals guide and our article Pals off-season for your visiting dates.