The Vies Verdes of the Girona province form one of the finest greenway networks in southern Europe. More than 125 kilometres of former railway lines converted into cycle paths, crossing the Empordà, the Gavarres and descending to the Mediterranean. From Pals and Aparthotel Arenal, you are two steps away from this network. Here are four routes to try during your stay.
The Vies Verdes network at a glance
Three main axes structure the network:
- Carrilet I: Olot to Girona, 54 km through the volcanic Garrotxa
- Carrilet II: Girona to Sant Feliu de Guíxols, 39.6 km linking the interior to the Costa Brava
- Ruta del Tren Petit: Palamós to Palafrugell, a short 6 km coastal loop
Most sections are flat or gently rolling, with a mixed surface (fine asphalt, stabilised compacted earth). They work for hybrids, gravel bikes, mountain bikes and, on some stretches, road bikes. Families with children from 8 years old can ride independently on the flattest sections.
Route 1: Pals to Torroella de Montgrí and l'Estartit
Distance: 18 km one way, almost no elevation, 1h15 to 1h30 at an easy pace.
You leave directly from Aparthotel Arenal, drop down towards Platja de Pals on the farm tracks, then reach Torroella de Montgrí along the foot of the massif. The final section runs to l'Estartit and the harbour, facing the Illes Medes.
Suggested stops: terrace coffee on the square in Torroella, a swim at Platja de la Gola before the return. Half of the route stays shaded, which keeps it comfortable even in July.
Level: easy. Suitable for families, beginners and electric bikes.
Route 2: La Bisbal d'Empordà loop
Distance: 32 km loop, 180 m of elevation, 2h30 to 3h.
This itinerary steps outside the strict Vies Verdes but borrows long sections of them. From Pals you take the old road towards Vulpellac, continue to La Bisbal d'Empordà (capital of Catalan ceramics), then ride a quiet section to Peratallada before returning to Pals through the rice fields.
The main draw of this loop is food and craft. In La Bisbal, pottery workshops open their doors, and several DO Empordà wineries offer tastings by appointment. In Peratallada, the cobbled streets deserve a photo stop.
Level: moderate. A few shared-road sections with cars, always low traffic.
Route 3: Carrilet II to Sant Feliu de Guíxols
Distance: 45 km from Pals by joining the route at Flaçà or Bordils, 3h30 to 4h30 at a tourist pace.
The great classic. Carrilet II is the greenway that connects Girona to the Costa Brava over 39.6 km, through the Gavarres and the cork oak forests. From Pals, you reach the route via farm roads, then ride on a smooth surface all the way to Sant Feliu bay, facing the sea.
Many cyclotourists organise the return by bus with a bike service, or by taxi van from Sant Feliu. This is a day outing, with a lunch break along the way (the village of Cassà de la Selva is a comfortable stage).
Level: moderate to sustained. Possible on a road bike on the asphalted part, more enjoyable on gravel.
Route 4: Ruta del Tren Petit, Palamós and Palafrugell
Distance: 12 km one way, negligible elevation, 50 minutes at an easy pace.
To reach this route from Pals, you drive or e-bike to Palamós (25 minutes), leave the vehicle at the harbour car park, then ride up the Ruta del Tren Petit to Palafrugell. The route is short but striking, finishing in the historic centre of Palafrugell.
This ruta is perfect for a half day, paired with a seafood lunch at the port of Palamós. The region is famous for the Palamós prawn, not to be missed if the season allows (read our Empordà gastronomy guide).
Level: very easy. Ideal for families with young children.
Renting a bike in Pals and nearby
Several shops cover the area:
- Pals centre: hybrids, electric bikes and gravel, delivery to Aparthotel Arenal on request
- L'Estartit: wide choice of mountain bikes and e-bikes, ideal for a direct start on route 1
- Palafrugell: specialists in road and gravel bikes for long rides on Carrilet II
Expect 20 to 30 euros a day for a hybrid, 35 to 45 euros for an electric bike. Book ahead in July and August, demand is high.
When to go and how to prepare
The ideal season runs from mid-March to mid-June, then from mid-September to late October. Summer remains rideable early morning and late afternoon, but the hot hours (12 to 17) are best avoided, especially on the less shaded sections.
A few habits to adopt:
- Plenty of water: plan 1.5 litres minimum per person for a half day, 3 litres for a full outing
- Sunscreen, cap under helmet, sunglasses
- Basic repair kit (inner tube, tyre levers, mini pump)
- Charged GPS or offline itinerary, some areas have limited signal
- Front and rear lights if you leave early or return late
The Vies Verdes are dotted with drinking fountains, but not all of them run depending on the season. Better to carry your own supply.
Food stops along the route
A few addresses cyclotourists keep bookmarked:
- Torroella de Montgrí: square-side cafés, traditional pastry shop for plaited brioches
- La Bisbal d'Empordà: DO Empordà wineries open for visits, tastings of whites and reds, local charcuterie
- Cassà de la Selva: affordable tapas bars on Carrilet II
- Palamós: grilled prawns at harbour restaurants, fish market late afternoon
- Palafrugell: bistros on plaça Nova, artisan horchata
The Pals IGP rice and DO Empordà wines can also be bought directly from producers. Several open their cellars during the day, ask at the Pals market on Tuesday morning.
Staying in Pals, the ideal base for cycling
Aparthotel Arenal has a private car park where bikes are stored securely. The studios are equipped with a kitchen, which lets you prepare your own snacks, wash your jersey and dry your kit on the terrace. The ground-floor café opens early, handy for breakfast before a morning start on Carrilet II.
For week-long stays, the combination of studio plus electric bike rental is the best freedom-comfort ratio. You cover a different route every day and return to your base in the evening.
Frequently asked questions about the Vies Verdes from Pals
Which Via Verda is the most accessible for beginners?
The Ruta del Tren Petit between Palamós and Palafrugell. Flat, short, well marked, no traffic. Perfect for a first contact as a family or after a long break from cycling.
Can the Vies Verdes be ridden on a road bike?
Yes on Carrilet II, which is mostly asphalted. No on the stabilised compacted-earth sections such as parts of the Pals-Torroella route, where a hybrid or gravel bike is more comfortable.
Can you rent a bike in Pals itself?
Yes, several shops operate in Pals and can deliver directly to Aparthotel Arenal on request. Booking recommended in high season.
What daily distance is reasonable?
For an occasional cyclotourist, 30 to 40 km with breaks. For a regular rider, 60 to 80 km are comfortable on the Vies Verdes thanks to the flat profile. On an electric bike, double those distances without excessive fatigue.
Can children ride independently?
From 8 to 9 years old on flat sections such as the Ruta del Tren Petit or the descent to Torroella. For younger ones, a trailer or child seat is better.
Is there a bike shuttle service for the return?
Yes, several companies run shuttles with bike trailers, notably from Sant Feliu de Guíxols. Ask at the tourist office before you leave.
Can you combine cycling and swimming?
Absolutely. Route 1 to l'Estartit ends at Platja de la Gola. Route 4 around Palamós opens onto Costa Brava coves. Plan a swimsuit and a light towel in your panniers.
Closing thoughts
Four routes, four moods. The Vies Verdes network turns Pals into an ideal base for a cycling stay with little or no car. Whether you head out as a family on the Ruta del Tren Petit, tackle the full-day Carrilet II to Sant Feliu, or string together a gastronomic loop via La Bisbal, you will find your rhythm.
Book your studio at Aparthotel Arenal and get going. The bike parking, the equipped kitchen and the immediate proximity of the routes do the rest. To dig deeper into the region, read our complete guide to Pals and our guide to the Costa Brava beaches.