The Medes Islands, an archipelago of seven limestone islets off L'Estartit, form one of the richest marine reserves in the western Mediterranean. Protected since 1983, they shelter groupers, moray eels, barracudas, octopuses and red coral in crystal-clear waters. From the Aparthotel Arenal in Pals, the Medes are 20 minutes away by car, making them the must-see nautical excursion of your stay.
The Medes Islands in figures
The archipelago covers 21.5 hectares of emerged land and 511 hectares of protected marine reserve. The islets, of which Meda Gran (the largest) rises to 78 metres, have been uninhabited since the late 19th century. The marine reserve prohibits fishing, free mooring and collecting, which has allowed a spectacular regeneration of species.
More than 1,300 animal and plant species are recorded in the reserve, including around 70 large adult groupers, a unique population in the western Mediterranean. Underwater caves, drop-offs and Posidonia meadows make it a site classified among the 10 best diving destinations in Europe.
Access is exclusively by boat from L'Estartit, a port 15 minutes from Pals. Swimming is authorised only in certain delimited zones, and the number of daily divers is regulated to preserve the environment.
The best diving spots
Here are the must-see sites ranked by level:
Tascons Grossos: vertical drop-off from 0 to 50 metres, the most famous site. Giant groupers, barracudas, schools of damselfish. Minimum Open Water level.
La Vaca: tunnel cave accessible to all levels, home to lobsters and moray eels. Spectacular cathedral light in the middle of the day.
Carall Bernat: rocky needle, drift dive around the peak. Large rays, little tunny, sometimes sunfish in summer.
El Dofí: wreck of a boat deliberately sunk at 27 metres to create an artificial reef. Level 2 recommended.
Els Salpatxots: shallow drop-off (5 to 15 metres), ideal for first dives and beginners. Curious groupers.
Count 40 to 60 euros per exploration dive (first-timer 75 to 90 euros). Diving centres in L'Estartit (Unisub, Xaloc, Medaqua) offer attractive multi-dive packages.
Snorkelling at the Medes Islands
Snorkelling is the easiest and most economical way to discover the marine reserve. Several providers offer half-day trips with boat, equipment and guide:
Classic snorkelling trip: 3 to 4 hours, 40 to 55 euros per adult, 25 to 35 euros per child. Includes fins, mask, snorkel and 3mm neoprene wetsuit. Departure 9am or 2pm.
SeaWalker trip: waterproof helmet allowing you to walk underwater without knowing how to swim. 80 to 100 euros, accessible from age 8. Unique experience for non-swimmers.
Transparent kayak: 2 hours, 35 to 50 euros, perfect to see the depths without getting wet. Possible departure from L'Estartit or Montgó.
Snorkelling zones concentrate around Meda Petita and small islets. Water is clear (15 to 25 metres visibility), temperature between 14 degrees in February and 25 degrees in August. Neoprene remains comfortable even in midsummer underwater.
Glass-bottom boat excursions
For non-divers, glass-bottom or semi-submerged boats offer an alternative accessible to all:
Classic underwater vision boat: 1h30 to 2h, 20 to 28 euros adult, 12 to 18 euros child. Frequent departures from L'Estartit. Stops in caves, multilingual commentary.
Medes Islands and coast tour: 3h to 3h30, 35 to 45 euros adult. Includes the Medes and coastal caves as far as Cala Pedrosa. Perfect combo of scenery and underwater.
Sunset excursion: 2h to 2h30, 30 to 40 euros. Glass of cava included, ideal as a couple or family. Magical light on the cliffs.
Nautilus, Coralsub and Medas Emocions companies offer these formats. Book online or directly at the port. Bring hat, sunscreen and waterproof camera.
Best time to visit
The experience varies greatly depending on the season:
June to September: water at 20-25 degrees, maximum visibility (20-30 metres), all activities available. Heavy attendance, booking essential. Ideal season for beginners and families.
April-May and October: water at 16-19 degrees, 5mm or semi-dry wetsuit necessary. Excellent visibility, reduced attendance, sometimes degressive rates. Season favoured by experienced divers.
November to March: water at 13-16 degrees, reserved for experienced divers with thick wetsuit. Excellent visibility, large pelagics sometimes observed. Some centres close.
The best window combining weather, warm water and reasonable attendance is mid-June to late June, then early September. Avoid the 15 July - 20 August period for more serenity.
Organising your excursion from Pals
From the Aparthotel Arenal, several travel options:
Car: 15 minutes to L'Estartit (14 km). Paid parking in high season (3 to 6 euros per day). Free parking 10 minutes walk from the port.
Electric bike: 30 to 40 minutes via the cycle path crossing the rice fields. Flat journey, pleasant, tiring return if windy. Possible to leave the bike at the port station.
Bus: Sarfa line from Pals, limited frequency (3 to 4 services per day in summer). 30-minute journey, 2.50 euros per ticket.
Taxi: 25 to 35 euros one-way. Interesting for groups or late returns.
Plan at least a half-day (morning preferably for the light and calm water). For divers with 2 dives, plan a full day. Returning to Pals allows a relaxed end of day in the studio or at the beach.
Detailed prices per activity
Summary of budgets to plan per person:
First dive: 75 to 95 euros, 1 dive at 6 metres with dedicated instructor Exploration dive (certified): 40 to 60 euros per dive, degressive in packages 5-dive package: 180 to 250 euros depending on the centre Guided half-day snorkelling: 40 to 55 euros Underwater vision boat: 20 to 28 euros Coast and Medes boat tour: 35 to 45 euros Transparent kayak 2h: 35 to 50 euros SeaWalker: 80 to 100 euros L'Estartit parking: 3 to 6 euros/day
For a family of 4 (2 adults, 2 children), count 120 to 160 euros for a complete half-day snorkelling, 90 to 130 euros for a boat tour.
The Montgrí coast caves
Less known but often included in Medes excursions, the Montgrí coast caves deserve a separate article. The Cova Foradada, Cova del Bou, Cova de la Fonollera offer spectacular light plays and millennia-old limestone formations.
Several boats combine Medes and caves in the same tour (3h to 3h30). The spectacular landscape of cliffs falling into the turquoise sea is among the most beautiful in Catalonia. Combining both makes the journey worthwhile.
Practical tips and good practice
Some rules to respect the marine reserve:
Touch nothing: corals, sponges, fish can be approached but not caressed. A simple contact can destroy several years of coral growth.
Take nothing: shells, starfish, pebbles stay in the reserve. Offenders risk fines of 600 to 300,000 euros.
Biodegradable sunscreen: required by some centres, strongly recommended to protect the environment. Classic chemical filters contribute to coral bleaching.
Respect instructions: the number of divers per site is limited, moorings are fixed, silence underwater allows observing groupers.
Equipment: centres provide everything necessary. Experienced divers can bring their regulator, mask and computer for more comfort.
Frequently asked questions about the Medes Islands
Do you need a certificate to dive?
No for a first dive (75-95 euros), yes for exploration dives (minimum PADI Open Water or equivalent). Centres check certificate and logbook before the outing.
Can children participate?
Snorkelling accessible from 5-6 years old with an adult. SeaWalker from 8 years. First dive from 10 years according to centres (12 years at some). Glass-bottom boats accessible to all ages.
Can you swim freely at the Medes?
Yes, in delimited zones around Meda Gran. Anchoring prohibited outside designated zones. Most visitors swim from their excursion boat.
How long do excursions last?
From 1h30 for a simple boat tour to 8h for a two-dive day. The most popular formula is half-day snorkelling (3-4h).
Are there many people in summer?
Yes, July-August sees up to 500 divers and 1,500 snorkelers per day on the reserve. Book 1 to 2 weeks in advance. Prefer morning trips (9am departure) to avoid crowds.
Can you see dolphins or turtles?
Rarely, the Medes are best known for benthic fauna (seabed). Dolphins are sometimes spotted in transit offshore. Loggerhead turtles can be encountered in summer (rare).
Is free swimming possible from L'Estartit?
No, the distance (2 km) and currents make the crossing dangerous. Access to the reserve is only by boat.
Conclusion
The Medes Islands offer a unique underwater experience in the Mediterranean, from simple observation from a glass-bottom boat to technical diving on vertiginous drop-offs. From the Aparthotel Arenal in Pals, the archipelago is 20 minutes away, allowing half-days or full days without heavy logistical movement.
Book your studio at the Aparthotel Arenal for a nature and sea stay on the Costa Brava. To complete your discovery, consult our complete Pals guide, our guide to the most beautiful local beaches and our guide to family activities in Pals to organise an active and varied stay.