Empordà markets are essential gatherings to discover local life and authentic Costa Brava gastronomy. From Aparthotel Arenal in Pals, a different market takes place each day of the week in a neighboring village. Here is a complete guide to organize your visits, know what to buy and fully enjoy these convivial moments.
Why visit Empordà markets
Weekly markets have been at the heart of Catalan village social life since the Middle Ages. Unlike tourist markets saturated with souvenirs, Empordà markets maintain a strong agricultural and artisanal identity. You meet residents doing their shopping, local producers and a few carefully selected craft stands.
Visiting these markets allows bringing back authentic products at reasonable prices: Empordà olive oil, Catalan charcuterie, Garrotxa cheeses, Pals rice PGI, L'Escala anchovies, coca bread, DO Empordà wines. The equipped studio at Aparthotel Arenal then allows cooking these purchases and extending the pleasure of the table in the apartment.
The human dimension of markets is also worth the detour. Producers take time to talk about their products, give cooking tips and explain Empordà particularities. It is an excellent way to understand the territory beyond classic tourist circuits.
Pals market, Tuesday morning
The Pals market takes place every Tuesday morning from 8am to 1pm on Plaça del Mur, at the foot of the medieval village. It is smaller than those of neighboring towns but very authentic: about thirty stands, dominated by local producers.
You will find Pals rice PGI directly from producers (Mas Pla, Arrossaires del Delta), seasonal fruits and vegetables, Catalan cheeses, L'Escala anchovies, garrigue honey and a few textile stands. Prices are affordable, with quality products. Few tourist stands, village atmosphere.
Major advantage: 3 minutes walk from Aparthotel Arenal. You can stop by in pajamas after morning coffee, shop for the week and go home to cook. Ideal for teleworkers on long stays.
La Bisbal d'Empordà market, Friday
La Bisbal holds its weekly market on Friday morning from 8am to 2pm in the historic center. It is one of the largest markets in the region, with more than 150 stands extending over several streets.
La Bisbal's particularity is ceramics. The village has been the capital of Catalan pottery since the 13th century, and the market includes many artisanal potters. You will find terracotta cazuelas (perfect for arròs a la cassola), paella dishes, pitchers and tagines at prices far below tourist shops.
On the food side, the market offers the full diversity of Empordà: charcuterie, cheeses, breads, Catalan pastries (carquinyolis, coca de piñones), olive oil, honey, wines. Allow 1.5 to 2 hours to tour the whole market. La Bisbal is 15 minutes by car from Pals.
Palafrugell market, Sunday
Palafrugell hosts its market on Sunday morning from 9am to 2pm on Plaça Nova. With more than 200 stands, it is the largest Sunday market in central Costa Brava. The atmosphere is festive, a mix of locals and tourists.
The market is particularly famous for its seafood products (anchovies, sardines, canned tuna), Catalan charcuterie (botifarra, fuet, llonganissa) and cheeses. Several DO Empordà winemaker stands offer tastings. The L'Escala anchovy, a local specialty, deserves the detour.
Palafrugell is 15 minutes from Pals by car. Combine the market with lunch in one of the historic center restaurants, then an afternoon in Calella de Palafrugell or Llafranc. Excellent combination for a Sunday day on Costa Brava.
Torroella de Montgrí market, Monday
Torroella holds its weekly market on Monday morning from 8am to 2pm on Plaça de la Vila. Very local atmosphere, with few tourists (outside high season), it is the most authentic market in the region.
Ter plain producers dominate: rice field vegetables, PGI rice, seasonal fruits, peasant breads. Several local butchers offer quality meats (Montgrí lamb, free-range pork). Artisanal charcuterie is worth the trip.
The village itself deserves a visit: beautiful 18th century facades, Montgrí castle dominating the plain, international music festival in summer. Torroella is 15 minutes from Pals. Monday after the tourist weekend, the market is restful and very lively on the producer side.
Palamós market, Tuesday
Palamós complements the Pals market on Tuesday morning from 8am to 2pm. Larger (about 100 stands), it occupies several streets in the town center. The atmosphere is more urban, but product quality remains high.
Palamós particularity is the fish auction held every afternoon (4:30pm). Palamós red prawns are world-famous for their quality. The Tuesday market offers fresh fish from the previous day's auction, notably at several fishmongers of the adjacent covered market.
Combine the market with a visit to the Fishing Museum (at the port), a prawn lunch in a waterfront restaurant and a swim at Platja Gran or Cala S'Alguer. Palamós is 25 minutes from Pals by car.
Figueres market, Thursday
Figueres, capital of Alt Empordà and Salvador Dalí's city, holds its market on Thursday morning from 8am to 2pm on La Rambla and adjacent streets. More than 200 stands, lively atmosphere.
The market is a good complement to visiting the Dalí Theatre-Museum. Typical Alt Empordà products: DO wines, charcuterie, payès bread, cheeses. Several stands from Albères producers (French border area) offer specialties hard to find elsewhere.
Figueres is 40 minutes from Pals, so the day combines market + museum + lunch. Hotel Duran restaurant is an institution for the meal. The Figueres market attracts many French who come shopping on weekends (oil, wine, charcuterie at attractive prices).
L'Escala market, Wednesday
L'Escala, fishing village turned seaside resort, organizes its weekly market on Wednesday morning from 8am to 2pm on the main square. About 80 stands, family atmosphere.
Main asset: L'Escala anchovies. Several local producers (Anxoves del Port, Anxoves Solés) sell directly at the market their jars and fillets. L'Escala anchovy, hand-salted according to a 2000-year-old Roman tradition, is classified among the world's best. Count 15 to 25 euros per jar depending on size.
The Empúries archaeological site (Greek and Roman city) is 10 minutes walk from the market. Combine both in the morning, fish lunch at the port, afternoon at Cala Montgó or on Empúries beach. L'Escala is 30 minutes from Pals.
Monthly markets and special fairs
Beyond weekly markets, several monthly or annual fairs deserve to be noted:
Fira del Vi de Pals (May): annual fair of DO Empordà wines in Pals, with tastings, workshops and special menus in restaurants. Free, reservation recommended for masterclasses.
Mercat Medieval de Peratallada (September): medieval market reconstructed in Peratallada village. Artisans, period costumes, animations. Very photogenic.
Fira de Sant Narcís in Girona (October-November): large annual fair with artisanal markets, gastronomy and animations. Three weeks long.
Mercats de Nadal (December): Christmas markets in several villages (Pals, La Bisbal, Girona, Figueres). Festive atmosphere, Catalan crafts, decorations and holiday products.
Practical tips for visiting markets
Some important points to make the most of markets:
Opening hours: arrive early (before 10am) for the best products and fewer crowds. Markets empty from 1pm. Several stands cut prices in late morning.
Payment: most producers accept credit cards, but favor cash for small purchases. Prices are rarely negotiable, but some producers offer a small rebate for bulk purchases.
Bags and coolers: bring reusable bags and a hard cooler for fish, meat and cheeses. Temperatures often exceed 25 degrees in summer, even early morning.
Parking: difficult in village centers during market days. Park on outskirts and walk. In La Bisbal, several free car parks 5 minutes from center.
Languages: most producers speak Catalan and Spanish. French is understood by several elders. English remains rare. A few basic Catalan words are very appreciated (bon dia for hello, gràcies for thank you, quant val for how much).
What to bring back from Empordà markets
Here are the must-haves to fill your basket:
- L'Escala anchovies: 15 to 25 euros per jar, world reference
- Empordà olive oil: 15 to 25 euros per liter, DOP Siurana or local producers
- Pals rice PGI: 5 to 12 euros per kilo, Bahia or Bomba
- Catalan charcuterie: raw botifarra (3-5 euros per piece), fuet (5-8 euros), llonganissa
- Catalan cheeses: Garrotxa, Tou dels Til·lers, Mas d'Eroles cheeses
- DO Empordà wines: 8 to 25 euros per bottle at winemakers
- Coca de piñones: traditional pastry, 10 to 15 euros per tray
- La Bisbal ceramics: cassola, dishes, pitchers (10 to 50 euros)
- Garrigue honey: 8 to 15 euros per 500g jar
- Artisanal chocolate: several chocolatiers from Banyoles and Girona exhibit
Frequently asked questions about Empordà markets
Which markets to prioritize from Pals?
Pals market (Tuesday) for proximity, La Bisbal (Friday) for diversity and ceramics, Palafrugell (Sunday) for the festive dimension. These three already offer an excellent vision of gastronomic Empordà.
Are markets open year-round?
Yes, weekly markets operate throughout the year, except for holidays or bad weather. Some seasonal stands only appear in summer. Monthly and annual fairs follow a specific calendar, to check on municipality websites.
Can you eat on site?
More and more markets include catering stands (churros, bocadillos, express paella). For a real meal, prefer a village restaurant: Can Tapes in Pals, Casa Anita in La Bisbal, Pa i Raïm in Palafrugell are safe bets.
Are prices interesting?
Overall, yes. Fruits and vegetables are 20 to 30 percent cheaper than in supermarkets. Charcuterie, cheeses and wines are at producer prices, often with superior quality. Anchovies and olive oil are cheaper than in specialty shops.
Can you bring items back home without trouble?
Yes, within personal consumption quantities allowed. Oil, preserves, rice, wine, vacuum-packed charcuterie pass without trouble. For raw meat and artisanal cheeses, respect customs rules. Most producers vacuum-pack on request.
Are markets suitable for families with children?
Absolutely. Children love colors, smells, animals (live poultry stands in some rural markets). Plan a stroller rather than a car for toddlers (uneven cobblestones) and a small budget for tastings.
Are there organic products?
Yes, several stands are certified organic, especially for fruits, vegetables, olive oil, cheeses and wines. The Spanish CCPAE label is equivalent to European organic. Prices remain competitive compared to France.
Conclusion
Empordà markets offer an authentic immersion in Catalan terroir, well beyond classic tourist circuits. From Aparthotel Arenal, a different market punctuates each day of the week within 30 minutes by car. The equipped studio then allows cooking purchases and extending culinary discovery in the apartment, local-style.
Book your studio at Aparthotel Arenal for a gastronomic immersion in Empordà. To complete the stay, consult our gastronomic guide, our Pals rice guide and our article on DO Empordà wineries to pair your purchases with the best local wines.